I. Preparation of skin and beard hair
Before shaving, skin and beard hair must be prepared carefully. This protects both the skin and the blade at the same time. For this purpose, it is best to shave right after a hot shower or apply a hot, wet towel to one‘s face for several minutes. Then splash the skin with warm water. If desired, the skin can also be treated with shaving oil before the water. Next, apply the thickly beaten foam with the brush. The soap should be left on for at least 2 minutes.
II. Preparing the razor
While the shaving soap softens the beard, there is enough time to strop the straight razor on a suspended or mounted strop.
III. Shaving with the grain
It may be necessary now to reapply soap with the wet brush. The foam has to be kept wet for the duration of the entire shave. The handle of the razor is folded back so that the blade is exposed and forms roughly a right angle with the handle. The handle is wedged between middle and ring finger and points away from the back of the hand. Now push the blade over the skin along the grain – the direction in which the beard grows – with gentle pressure. The angle should lie between 20° and 45°, the exact value depends on feeling and experience. Beginners should first shave the “easy” parts, like cheeks, and shave the rest of their face with the shaving method they have used up to now. With more practice and skill, they can slowly expand the shave to the other areas of the face. CAUTION: The elbow stands wide apart and not in the center of your own attention. If you bump into something with the elbow you will often get a painful cut.
IV. Shaving against the grain
After shaving with the grain, you can change the shaving direction to against the grain for a deeper and more thorough shave if desired, and if your skin can handle it. To do so, wet the skin again and apply soap.
V. After care of skin and razor
After the shave, first rinse skin with cold, clear water. This closes the pores of the skin and any small cuts. The razor is dried and oiled. Depending on your preference, you can apply an aftershave or facial lotion.